iPreFher

Forgot BIOS Password ?

Do the following :

1. Open the CPU
2. Now, observe the motherboard.
3. You notice a coin like silver Battery(3V).

————————–————— NOTE ——————————————————--
This battery is 24 x 7 power supply for the BIOS, which is used to run the system clock will the main power is off. It also initiates the booting process when power is switched on.
—————————————————————————––——————–——--

4. Remove the battery from the motherboard.
(It is safe to remove the Battery)
5. Wait 30 seconds and place the battery back on the motherboard.
6. Now, when you start your system you won’t be prompted for the BIOS password.

Enjoy !!!
—————————-——– CAUTION ———————————————–
1. Perform on your own risk !
2. You have to set the time of your computer when you start again.
—————————————————————————————-——––-

Deciding when to replace your office PCs with new ones is usually a difficult decision. You want to control your operating expenses but, at the same time, want your business to benefit from reliable, high-performing machines that can run the latest programs.
If you are unsure about what to do, here are five things that indicate it is probably time for a new computer.
And you’ll find your work worth the effort. A well thought-out technology plan can help you:
1. Your PC is four years old. If you cannot afford to have your PC break down or sit in the repair shop for a week, budget to replace your PC every three or four years. This replacement schedule does not guarantee that you never have a problem, but it could protect you from experiencing major component failures. Replacing your PC every four years also provides an opportunity to easily upgrade to improved software − such as Windows Vista and Office 2007− because PC makers will preload the programs on your new machine. And if you are buying five or more new PCs and installing new software, you may also be eligible to receive a discount on the software.
2. Your PC is slowing down. Many things can cause a computer to run slowly, which can erode productivity over time. By removing unnecessary programs that load at start up, deleting old files from your hard disk, scanning for viruses and spyware, and tweaking other operating system settings, you might improve your computer’s performance to a level you can live with.
However, it may also be the case that the programs you now run simply push the limits of the processing capabilities of your system. Insufficient memory, slow hard drive speeds, and an ancient CPU may prevent your system from keeping up with demands you place on it, particularly when you use multiple applications at the same time. If you have the time and skills, you could upgrade some of these components. But if you compare the overall cost of upgrading to what a new machine might cost, investing in a new PC is often the smarter option.
3. Your PC makes unusual noises. Computers typically make some noise. Cooling fans, CD-ROM drives and hard drives can all make a low hum or soft whirring when they operate. These sounds are not a cause for concern. If you start to hear clicking noises, loud humming or thumping noises, your hard drive is likely going bad. Back up your data and consider whether you want to replace the hard drive or, if other things are not working well, the entire computer.
4. You cannot run the software you want. New software programs demand more from computers and an older computer may not meet the optimal hardware requirements. For instance, if security is a top priority in your organisation, you may want to run the Windows Vista operating system, which includes enhanced security among its many impressive features. However, Windows Vista requires more memory and a faster processor than previous versions of Windows. To help you figure out if your current computer can run Windows Vista, Microsoft also provides an online service that evaluates your PC system to see if it meets its system requirements.
5. Your business is growing and prices are cheap. This reason does not apply to a replacement decision. It is more of a buying strategy. If you expect to add new employees in the near future because your business is expanding, then you might purchase PCs in advance if prices are especially good and you have the cash or credit available.

If you don’t want to spend big bucks on a new PC, consider upgrading your old system’s motherboard and CPU. This can boost the machine’s performance and give you access to the latest technologies. It can also save you hundreds of dollars.

What you won’t get is a new hard drive, optical drive, or operating system, though the new motherboard gives you the option of upgrading these components later. When you do it yourself, you choose the make, model, and cost that serve you best, rather than settling for what’s preloaded in an off-the-shelf machine.

For as little as $200 to $350, you can purchase a motherboard with a new Pentium 4 or Athlon processor and 512MB of RAM. (Visit this link to check the latest motherboard prices.) That’s hundreds of dollars less than the retail cost of a midrange PC that supports AGP 8X graphics cards, Serial ATA drives, and the other advanced features that your new motherboard is likely to offer.

Motherboard Buyers Guide

Size matters: Most desktop PCs sold in the last few years conform to the ATX form factor (as do most motherboards), but not all do. Many small or ultrabudget systems are based on other designs, and some PCs from HP/Compaq, IBM, and other big-name vendors aren’t ATX-compatible. Refer to your computer’s documentation to see if the new motherboard will fit inside its case.

Find the right CPU: The optimal combination of CPU price and performance may lead you to early versions of Athlon XP and Pentium 4 processors: Retail boxed versions of 1- to 2-GHz AMD Athlon XP processors cost less than $100, while Pentium 4 processors running at comparable speeds are less than $130. OEM versions of both (that’s minus the fancy box, the cooling fan, and sometimes a warranty) may be priced considerably lower. Avoid older Pentium 4 processors with 256KB of L2 cache. CPUs with 512KB cache are faster and well worth the small added expense.

Be picky: Steer clear of no-name vendors and buy from established manufacturers only.

Pay for power: Your old PC’s power supply may not have enough wattage or may lack the 12-volt amperage needed to run some Pentium 4 and Athlon motherboards. Check the new motherboard’s requirements against the specs on your power supply. If in doubt, buy a power supply that generates 300 watts or more,

Faster is better: A motherboard’s frontside bus speed is the rate at which data moves between the CPU and RAM. FSB speed can have a greater effect on overall system performance than listed CPU speed, which is a multiple of the FSB speed. The faster the FSB, the better.

Get it all: Your new motherboard needs PCI slots and USB ports, two UltraATA/100 connectors, parallel and serial ports (if you use these), and at least two DIMM slots for RAM (DDR RAM is best). For a little extra money, you can get Serial ATA, ethernet, RAID, FireWire, Wi-Fi, and other advanced features.

Sight and sound off: Some low-cost motherboards have sound and graphics functions built in. The quality of these integrated functions is often marginal. Make sure that any built-in sound and graphics can be disabled, and that separate audio and graphics boards can be added.

Minimize Your Mousing

For people in a hurry, every unnecessary mouse movement is an aggravation. Windows 2000, Me, and XP let you set the pointer to automatically move to commonly used buttons in dialog boxes. Click Start, Settings, Control Panel (or Start, Control Panel in XP), and click or double-click Mouse (choose “Printers and Other Hardware” first if you’re in XP’s Categories view, or “View all Control Panel options” if you’re in Me’s “commonly used” view). Now select Pointer Options, check the box labeled “Automatically move pointer to the default button in a dialog box” (the option’s wording varies slightly in Windows 2000), and click OK.

Running out of hard disk space, yet also want to keep all the files that are currently on the system in perfect order? Install an extra hard disk, and see your available space rise!

Firstly, make backups of your existing system files. You may never know when these may come in handy. If your current hard disk may go down the pan, you’ll be glad to have something to start with again. Also, if you want to use all your data that is on this drive, back it up anyway; ready to be transferred to the new drive. Also, create a system disk for your PC. This can be created by going to Control Panel > Add/Remove Programs, and then the “System Disk” tab. The instructions should be there for you. “WHEN I INSTALLED MY EXTRA HDD I DDNT FOLLOW ANY OF THE ABOVE MENTIONED….INSTEAD JUST OPEANED THE CABINET AND LOOKED FOR THE WIRES AND CONNECTED THEM …ANY ONE CAN TELL WHERE THE CORRECT WIRE GOES ….. THE MAIN THING IS TO MAKE SURE THAT THE BROAD THIN GRAY WIRE OR DATA CABLE SLOT WITH THE WORD ‘P2′ IS CONNECTED TO THE EXTRA HDD”

Once you are prepared on the software side, turn off your PC and open the case to your PC (Please take proper precautions at this point. Anti-static wristbands and other such devices should be used. If you don’t have these, just make sure you are properly earthed, and know what you are going to do. Oh, and please turn off the PC properly. I don’t want you dying on me, literally!). The hard disk is the metal box shaped thing that is either the size of the floppy drive or it could be the size of the CD-Rom drive. It should be easy to spot, because it might even say “Hard Disk” on it. At this point, look and see where you can put the new drive, and how you are going to connect it up. If there is no hard drive in there, then don’t worry; I’ll explain how to connect it up as well.

Look at the end of the HDD. It should have a load of sockets and pins for you to play around with. At one point, you should be able to see some pins with some jumpers attached, and a sticker on another side telling you what configuration of jumper positions means what to the computer. If you are attaching it to the same IDE cable as your existing drive, then set it to “Slave”, otherwise, select “Master” and fit it as close to the start of the cable as possible (The start of the cable being where it’s connected to the motherboard). This cable is an “IDE” cable, and can only be fitted two ways to the drive itself. Look for an indication as to which side pin number 1 is (Look for stickers again!) and insert the IDE cable in that socket and pins, with the red side as close to pin 1 as possible. Then, just fit it into the computer, as you would do any other drive (For the thickies, which means attaching it to the case using the mounting screws that should come with the PC. Before you do this though, note down the extra information on the top of the drive, usually the number of cylinders, heads, sectors, and any other information. Next, connect one of the power cables to the HDD (These are the 4 cable collections with connectors attached, which leads from the power supply unit), and close the PC case.

Next, you will have to mess with CMOS. Turn on the PC, and hit whatever key you are told to at the bootup to get to the CMOS menus. When in there, choose the relevant section (We can’t say exactly, because there are many different CMOS set-ups around) and select “IDE Auto-detection”. If the hard disk does not appear on it, then you will have to enter the information manually. Use the notes you collected from the top of the hard disk earlier to tell the computer what the hard disk is.

IMPORTANT:
Afterwards, insert the system disk(”THE BACKUP DISK THAT CAN BE CREATED BY RIGHT CLICKING A DRIVE4R AND SELECTING FORMAT AND THEN THE CREATE BACKUP DISK OPT”) prepared earlier and “Save” your editing of the CMOS and exit. The system disk should work instead of the original hard disk (Or if you are installing from scratch, then it will boot from the A: anyway).
Type “fdisk” at the dos prompt. This runs a program called, surprisingly, FDISK. Tell the computer which drive ie the harddisk is the new one (Please choose the correct one at this point. Make a mistake, and you really could be using those backups!), and then tell it what partitions you want (Don’t worry about it, as there are full instructions while you are running the program). Once this is done, you can reset your PC (Except if this drive is being installed from scratch and is on it’s own. If this is the case, then you can format the drive by typing “format c:” This will format the drive for you, but what’s really good is if you type “format c: /s” instead, as this installs some important files at the same time. Then, just follow the instructions to install whatever OS you are going to use.)
If you are adding this drive as a second HDD, Go into Windows (Or any other OS, but the instructions may be different!) and then format from “My Computer” like you would a floppy disk. There you go: A newly installed hard disk, with minimum effort!….and dont take the risk of formatting any of the drives u know!!!! if in doubt contact me here or don’t do at all………”SOD will not be held responsible for any data lost in this process”